The Pyrenees with Michael Portillo

Michael's Pyrenean quest continues with the physical challenge of the French High Pyrenees, which he enters at the Cirque du Gavarnie, a 1,700-metre-high wall of limestone forming a natural amphitheatre. He struggles on across the snowy Plateau de Saugué to meet Marion Clignet, a French Olympic cycling champion who refused to let her epilepsy curtail her career, as well as finding time to reflect on his time as defence secretary, and on the current war in Europe.

Michael Portillo continues his Pyrenean challenge, this time in the wild beauty of southwest France's Ariege region. Embarking on a journey of discovery, braving relentless rain, he begins by visiting a young couple from Luxembourg who left city life behind to become pig farmers. Magali and Christian wanted to escape the rat race and live a more fulfilling life, but they've have had to learn the ropes fast. Michael lends a hand feeding the pigs and samples some of the farm's delicacies. Climbing higher into the mountainous terrain, he shelters in a mountain cabin with seasoned hiker Patrice Tessiere Dufour. Over a hearty lunch, he learns about the customs and culture of the Pyrenees and its people. Michael ends his day at an abbey in the company of Benedictine nuns. He explores the daily life of the community and has to admit he is not a believer. Taking a break from walking, Michael visits an equestrian centre to uncover the history of the Merens horse, native to this region. Despite being a novice, Chloe Alazard persuades Michael to have a go at riding and, once in the saddle, he ‘feels like a Pyrenean cowboy'. Delving into a dark chapter of the region's past, Michael discovers the story of the Cathars, a Christian sect that flourished in this Pyrenean region in the 13th century. Labelled heretics by the Roman Catholic church, many were killed for their beliefs in a bloody crusade. Author Catherine De Courcy takes Michael into a prehistoric cave where she spent 60 hours alone to gain a deeper understanding of their spiritual lives. Michael ends his journey as he started, battling the elements. With a blizzard raging, he climbs to the hilltop ruins of the Château de Roquefixade, tracing the steps the Cathars took as they sought refuge from persecution.

This week, he's back in Spain and the Catalonian Pyrenees, and this journey is a deeply personal one. In 1939, Michael's father Luis Gabriel Portillo Perez fled through these mountains as a political refugee from the Spanish Civil War. At the tiny village of La Vajol, where many refugees headed to cross the border into France, Michael meets Margaret, some of whose family escaped through here. Together, they walk part of the route many refugees took and share their families' stories. Reflecting on what his father must have gone through, Michael says, ‘I hope he might think that my coming here is a tribute to him and to his suffering.' Continuing downhill across the Emporda Plain, he meets other people who share a special bond with this area. Vineyard owner Jordi left city life to return to his great grandparents' roots. Michael samples his organic wine and finds out how a slower pace of life and re-connecting with nature has brought Jordi happiness. At a tortoise sanctuary, Michael discovers how one of the founders, Joan, has a passion to protect this smallest of endangered native Pyrenean creatures for the future. Pressing on, Michael reaches the most easterly point on the Spanish mainland, the Cap de Creus — a protected Natural Park. He's joined by local guide Merce, who was drawn back here by wonderful childhood memories and ‘la alegria' — the joy of the area. Michael finally makes it to the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. On this spectacular coastline that once inspired the surrealist Salvador Dali, he reflects on his 12-day adventure and the wonderful people he's met, and he bids farewell to his constant companions throughout his journey — the Pyrenees.